Fridae

About an hour's drive from the capital city of Denpasar, Ubud has long been regarded as the heart of Bali's richly nuanced cultural scene. Artists and painters, writers and musicians from around the world have found their inspiration here, and guests can visit a number of art galleries and museums, see dramatic and opulent temple festivals and dances, to take in the magic of the real Bali.

The panoramic view of coconut palms and rice padis, overlooking a steep valley with the Ayung river snaking far below and Bali's sacred volcanoes in the distant background is one of the ALiLA Ubud's most spectacular selling points. While this gorgeously designed offers all the comforts of a 5-star luxury retreat, it's the secluded location and impeccable service, that offers the sophisticated traveller a tempting and fuss-free alternative to the busier tourist belts of Kuta and Nusa Dua.

Previously known as The Chedi (when it was once part of the famed Aman group of resorts), this exclusive property is designed in the vernacular Balinese style with thatched roofs and a traditional village-like layout. However, modernist touches are evident everywhere.

Of particular note are the sumptuously appointed villas, of which there are only eight, each with its own outdoor bathtub (sunken into a lotus pond), impressive rain showers, and private terrace where you can enjoy your afternoon tea overlooking the valley. The remaining 56 deluxe rooms offer either an open-air shower with a private garden, or have a private terrace offering uninterrupted views of the valley.

The restaurant is set amidst towering coconut pillars that invite the valley breeze in. A sophisticated menu of Asian and Mediterranean cuisine, as well as some of the most delicious Indonesian food we've tasted is served. For those who prefer to dine in privacy, there's also a bal� that is perched on a terrace just out of sight, but within hearing distance so that sounding the brass gong summons the attentive service staff.

Sun worshippers can pay homage at the stunning infinity-edge pool, which has been ranked by Travel & Leisure as one of the 50 most spectacular swimming pools in the world. Instantly recognisable, the pool has become a trademark of the ALiLA Ubud.

In fact, so romantic is the ALiLA Ubud that numerous couples have chosen to hold their weddings here, some with barely 24 hours notice. The General Manager (a very handsome Dutchman named Arjan de Boer) informed us that many gay and lesbian couples have held their commitment ceremonies at the resort, with a variety of settings and treatments to choose from that would put satisfy even the fussiest queen.

The ALiLA staff are famously accommodating and professional, and no manner of request is ever turned down. Private itineraries are meticulously customised by the leisure concierge, such as trips to the mountain village of Kintamani, or a trek through the spectacular rice terraces at Tegalalang. Don't want to muddy your designer sneakers? You may even charter a helicopter to drop you off at the peak of Mount Agung to watch the sunrise, enjoy a breakfast specially packed for the journey, and have a 4x4 SUV waiting at the foot of the mountain to take you back.

If you're into the arts, a special arts tour can also be arranged to visit Ubud's many art galleries and museums. Of note is the airy gallery of gay-artist Symon, whose neon-coloured na�ve paintings of nude cavorting Balinese youth have earned him a considerable following.

And if you prefer to chill out and not leave the resort, there is always the in-house Mandara Spa, which provides not only Elemis spa treatments, but also its own menu of Balinese massages, wraps, and facial treatments. Take your pick between open-air treatment areas which have outdoor bathrooms and waterfall showers, or indoor suites which offer air-conditioned comfort.

Any way you look at it, the ALiLA Ubud is a perfect retreat from the hoi polloi.

ALiLA Ubud
Desa Melinggih Kelod
Payangan, Gianyar 80572
Bali, Indonesia
Phone +62 361 975963
Fax +62 361 975968
ubud@ALiLahotels.com
www.alilahotels.com

56 Rooms, 8 Villas
Superior USD 240
Deluxe USD 260
Villa USD 450